Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On Output

I just installed this loc to help with an annoying thump i was getting on my subs due to my monoblock being connected to the output of my 4 channel amp. The 4 channel has hi level turn on sensing; the monoblock doesn't. This gave the monoblock its own input, and the built in remote wire is great. I just added pigtails to the remote end and ground for length to connect to speaker wires going to 4 channel. Now my turn on is alot quieter, very light if anything. Thank you KICKER!.

Great option for radios missing a subwoofer output. In this case my radio did have a subwoofer output but the gain on it was really weak, causing my sub to be very quiet.This saved my day, didn't need the 12 volt output, just connected the four speaker wires and the ground. Excellent volume

The Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter is a fantastic tool for upgrading your car audio system. It delivers clean, high-quality sound without distortion and makes it easier to integrate aftermarket amplifiers with factory stereos. Its remote turn-on feature, simple installation, and durable design make it an excellent choice for both beginners and experienced car audio enthusiasts. If you’re looking for an affordable and reliable line-output converter, the Kicker 46KISLOC2 is definitely worth considering.

Value for money connectivity functionality

Works, BUT....I have some experience with installing aftermarket subs. That being said, here's some information to consider with this LOC:As opposed to the LOC, the LOC2 has a remote turn on wire. Depending on how you are hooking this up, it can cause a "constant on" issue with the accessory that you are piggy backing off of in the fuse block. This is apparently an issue affected by some modern cars and the way the electrical system works (e.g. power in the speaker wires, if tapping into them for your audio signal).Specific example: I added a sub in a 2024 Subaru. I tapped into the ACC fuse spot using an ADD-A-FUSE connector. After doing this, the stereo and amp would stay on, unless I removed the ADD-A-FUSE. Apparently, the powered LOC2 closed the loop on the ACC causing it mm to stay powered.The fix: I disconnected the blue & ground (black) wires and simply hooked the remote wire from the fuse block straight to the amplifier the traditional way. Problem solved.My take in this situation was that I would have been better served just buying a traditional LOC for my specific application, like, perhaps, the original Kicker LOC (46KISLOC) I, personally wanted to avoid using any other brands that are manually adjustable.NOTE: This was MY experience. Those more experienced than me may have a better solution.

There’s not much to say besides it delivered a clean sound to my amp. Installed this in a 2011 Toyota Sienna so you could only imagine how much room I have for subs. ;)

Works as expected

Item worked good until it overheated and started smoking. But I was able to exchange it for another and the second one had worked good.